Those of you that followed my Me Made May updates can’t have failed to notice that throughout the month I wore a few different versions of the Ogden Cami by True Bias patterns.
I have made no secret of the fact that I love this simple top and seriously, what’s not to love? I love the simple lines; I love that it fits me so well; I love that it can be made with just one meter of fabric; I love that goes with anything; I love that it can be worn tucked in or loose; I love that it works as well as a layered pice as it does on its own; I love that I can whip one up in less than two hours: I love that it lends itself to so much hacking potential (Ogden Cami maxi dress anyone?) I could go on.
To date I have made four versions of the Ogden Cami, with another two ready cut and one with the fabric ready waiting in the wings.
First up is the pineapple version, made in a cotton/linen blend from Fabric Godmother. How amazing is this fabric?! The recommended fabrics for this top are light weight wovens with a good drape. My pineapple fabric is quite sturdy and is a medium weight. It doesn’t drape well at all but, I just couldn’t resist those pineapples.
Next is a navy and white polka dot version, made in rayon from Fabric Godmother. This is the recommended weight fabric for this pattern and it has the perfect amount of drape.
My third version of the top was made in this glorious floral cotton from Fabric Godmother. With its simple lines and lack of bust darts, the Ogden Cami is perfect for showing off great prints like this one. I think I prefer the drape of rayon though.
Version number four is this grey/blue floral rayon also from Fabric Godmother. Beautiful fabric than really suits the pattern.
OK, lets move onto the fit. I have mentioned already that I love that this top fits me incredibly well. This is not a happy accident. It took a few toiles and some FBA wizardry to get the perfect fit.
My measurements for this top had me at a size 10 but that ended up being tight across the bust and too big everywhere else. Two toiles later and I realised I was going to have to cut a much smaller size with a full bust adjustment.
In the end I cut a size 10 back, a size 6 front and I did a 3 inch FBA, without darts, to accommodate my 32F bust. I also lengthened the facings and the back bodice pieces slightly.
Adjusting the bust
A number of people have asked me how to go about doing an FBA in a garment that doesn’t have bust darts. As always in sewing, there a various different ways of doing things including FBAs. This is by no means the ULTIMATE METHOD but it is the way I do it and is the method that I teach.
First up assemble your pattern pieces and, on the front bodice piece, hold it up against you so you can work out where the apex will go (basically mark off where your nipple is).
Once you have marked the apex, draw a horizontal line (1) from this point to the side seam (shown here in blue).
Draft a second line (2) from 1/3 of the armhole to the apex and then vertically down to the hem (shown here in red).
Finally, draw a horizontal line (3) straight across the pattern piece at the ‘lengthen/shorten’ line (shown here in pink).
Now you are ready to start slashing and spreading.
Cut the red line from the hem to the armhole, stopping just before you reach the very end. Also, cut the blue line from the side seam to the apex, again, stopping before you reach the end so that you can pivot the pieces.
Now spread the pieces in the direction of the arrows, to the size that you want. Not sure how much you need to add? Well, all patterns are different but a general rule of thumb is to add one inch for each cup size over a C cup. So if you are a D cup add one inch, an E cup add two inches and so on.
Next you need to cut straight across the pink line, from the centre front to where the blue line crosses with it. Spread this piece in the direction shown.
The final step is to add some paper scraps behind the slashed pattern pieces and use some sticky tape to hold it all together.
And that is it – full bust adjustments made and no unnecessary darts ruining the line. I hope you found this tutorial helpful.
It was a fair bit of work for what should be a simple top, but I couldn’t be happier with the fit. With four made and a pile more in the queue, this looks set to be my top of the summer.